Exterior Services

• The goal of the exterior portion is to remove contaminants and provide a layer of protection to the paint.

• Hand Wash and Dry: A meticulous wash using high-quality microfiber mitts and the "two-bucket method" to prevent scratching the paint.

• Wheel and Tire Cleaning: Deep cleaning of the rims, tires, and wheel wells to remove stubborn brake dust and road grime.

• Tire Dressing: Application of a "shine" or protectant to the tires to give them a like-new appearance and prevent UV cracking.

• Exterior Glass: Streak-free cleaning of all windows and side mirrors.

• Basic Protection: Application of a "spray wax" or quick sealant to provide short-term shine and water beading.

 Interior Services

• The interior portion focuses on high-touch areas and removing loose debris.

• Thorough Vacuuming: Cleaning of all carpets, floor mats, seats, and the trunk.

• Surface Wipe-Down: Dusting and cleaning of the dashboard, center console, cup holders, and door panels.

• Interior Glass: Cleaning the inside of the windshield and windows to remove film and fingerprints.

• Door Jambs: Wiping down the metal frames around the doors to remove grease and dirt buildup.

Exterior: Decontamination & Better Protection

• The main difference here is the "feel" of the paint.

• Clay Bar Treatment: The detailer slides a synthetic clay bar over the paint to pluck out "bonded contaminants" like tree sap, tar, and industrial fallout. This makes the paint feel as smooth as glass.

• Hand Wax or Sealant: Instead of a quick spray, a high-quality paste wax or synthetic sealant is applied. This provides 3–6 months of protection and a much deeper gloss.

• Exhaust Tip Polishing: Metal polish is used to remove carbon buildup from chrome or stainless steel exhaust tips.

• Plastic Trim Restoration: Faded black plastics (like bumpers or mirrors) are treated with a UV-protectant restorer to bring back their dark color.

Interior: Deep Cleaning & Conditioning

• This is where you’ll notice the biggest "new car" refresh.

• Shampooing & Steam Cleaning: Carpets and floor mats are shampooed to lift light stains. Steam is often used to kill bacteria and loosen dirt in hard-to-reach crevices like cup holders and air vents.

• Leather Conditioning: If you have leather seats, they are cleaned with a pH-neutral cleaner and then "fed" with a conditioner to keep them soft and prevent cracking.

• Detailing Brushes: Detailers use small boar-hair brushes to clean every button, knob, and seam in the dashboard and center console.

• Stain Spot Treatment: Minor spills and marks on the headliner or fabric seats are targeted specifically.

Exterior: "The Perfection Phase"

• The standout feature of a premium detail is the focus on the paint's "optical clarity" rather than just its cleanliness.

• Paint Correction (Multi-Stage): This is the biggest cost driver. Professionals use machine buffers and abrasive compounds to physically level the clear coat, permanently removing swirl marks, light scratches, and oxidation.

• Ceramic Coating: Instead of wax, a liquid polymer (SiO2) is applied that chemically bonds with the paint. It creates a semi-permanent, hydrophobic "glass" layer that lasts 1 to 5+ years, making the car incredibly easy to wash.

• Engine Bay Detailing: The engine is safely degreased, steam-cleaned, and the plastic/rubber components are dressed with heat-resistant protectants.

• Undercarriage Cleaning: Removal of road salt and grime from the bottom of the vehicle to prevent corrosion.

• Headlight Restoration: Sanding and polishing oxidized (foggy) headlights back to crystal clarity, then sealing them with a UV coating.

 Interior: "The Deep Sanitization"

• Ozone Treatment: A specialized machine is placed in the car to chemically "kill" odors (smoke, mold, bacteria) at a molecular level rather than just masking them with scent.

• Full Steam Sanitization: Every crevice—including air vents, seat rails, and seatbelt buckles—is blasted with high-pressure steam to sanitize and lift deep-seated dirt.

• Hot Water Extraction: Carpets and fabric seats aren't just shampooed; they are "injected" with hot water and sucked dry with a high-powered extractor to remove years of embedded mud and spills.

• Consumable Protection: Fabric guards are applied to carpets to prevent future staining, and premium matte UV-shields are applied to the dash to prevent sun-cracking without the greasy "shiny" look.

Ceramic coating is the "holy grail" of paint protection. It’s a liquid polymer that chemically bonds to your car's factory paint, creating a semi-permanent, glass-like shield. Unlike wax, which sits on top of the paint, a ceramic coating becomes part of it.

What it actually does (The Benefits)

• Insane Hydrophobicity: Water beads up and rolls off instantly. This makes washing your car significantly faster because dirt has a harder time "sticking" to the slick surface.

• UV Protection: It acts like a permanent sunscreen, preventing your paint from oxidizing (fading) or peeling due to sun exposure.

• Chemical Resistance: It protects against acidic contaminants like bird droppings, bug guts, and acid rain, which can "etch" or eat into your clear coat.

• Deep Mirror Gloss: It enhances the depth of the paint, giving it a permanent "wet look."

What it doesn't do (The Myths)

• It’s not bulletproof: It won't stop rock chips or deep scratches from a key.

• It still needs washing: You can’t just stop washing your car. However, you won’t need to scrub as hard, and you should never need to wax it again.

• It doesn't hide defects: Because it's clear, it actually magnifies what's underneath. If you have scratches and apply ceramic over them, you’ve just "locked in" those scratches for years.

The Process (Why it's so expensive)

• If you go the professional route, you aren't just paying for the liquid in the bottle; you're paying for the 8–15 hours of labor required to prepare the surface:

• Chemical Decon: Stripping old waxes and removing iron particles (industrial fallout).

• Clay Bar: Pulling embedded grit out of the paint.

• Paint Correction: Polishing out swirl marks and scratches so the paint is "perfect" before it's sealed.

• Panel Wipe: Removing all oils with an alcohol solution so the coating can bond.

• Application: Applying the coating in small sections and "leveling" it to prevent high spots (dark streaks).

• Curing: Letting the car sit in a dry, temperature-controlled environment for 12–24 hours.